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Back to Two Voyages to Sierra Leone, part 6 LETTER XI. February 15th, 1793. My dear Madam, THE Good Intent, Captain Buckle, affords me an opportunity of sending you the foregoing Journal, which I fear you will think very insipid, but every day produces such a sameness that really there is not subject for high seasoning, even a common epistle, and you will allow journalizing still more difficult; however, to avoid tautological writing, as much as possible, I skiped over several days at a time, which of course you will have observed, but after all, it is so dry, that I am almost ashamed to send it you, and ant determined in future to have recourse to my old epistolary mode. My dinner on the 21st of January will somewhat puzzle you at first, and least you may not at once hit upon what occasioned it, I must acquaint you I have changed the name of Falconbridge for one a little shorter, under which I beg to subscribe myself. Yours sincerely, &c, &c . LETTER XII. Free June 5, 1793. My dear Madam, I Finished my last by hinting that I had once more enlisted under the banners of Hymen, but made no apology for my hastiness; or, in other words, for deviating from the usual custom of twelve months widowhood. To be plain, I did not make any, because I thought it unnecessary. Narrow minds may censure me, and perhaps the powerful influence of habit, might operate against me in your opinion, before you reflected upon my situation, or well-digested the many circumstances which plead in my favour; but having done this, I am mistaken indeed,, if your heart is not too expanded to sully me with reproach afterwards. My own conscience acquits me from having acted wrong; next to that, I wish for the approbation of my friends, and after them, the charitable construction of the world. I know you wish me happy, and no woman can be more so than I am at present, with every expectation of a continuance. I must now proceed to give you a summary view of occurrences since the fifteenth of February. The first thing I shall mention is the universal discontent which has prevailed among the Settlers ever since the altercation they had with Mr. Dawes and the Surveyor on the 7th of February, and it must be confessed by every candid person, their murmurs are not excited without cause. To give you an idea of what their complaints are, I shall state the outlines of a petition which they intend sending to the Court of Directors by two Deputies elected about the middle of March, who, for want of an opportunity, have not yet sailed, but are just on the eve of embarking in the Amy, for It first of all states, “That the Petitioners are sensible of, and thankful for the good intended by sending them
from assist the Company's views, all in their power.. “That they are grieved beyond expression to be forced to complain of hardships and oppressions loaded on them by the managers of the Colony, which they are persuaded the Directors are ignorant of. “That
the promises made by the Company's Agents, in out to them before, and trusting the performance of them, with the Almighty's assistance, and their own industry, would better their condition, induced them to emigrate here. That none of those promises have been fulfilled, and it has been insinuated to them that Mr. Clarkson had not authority for making any, they therefore beg to be informed, whether such is the case or not, and that the Directors will point out on what footing they are considered. "That health and life is valuable and uncertain; that notwithstanding they labor under the misfortune of wanting education, their feelings. are equally acute with those of white men, and they have as great an anxiety to lay a foundation for their children's freedom and happiness, as any human being can possess. That they believe the Directors wish to make them happy, and that they think their sufferings are principally due to the conduct of the Company's Agents here, which they suppose has been partially represented to the Directors. "That
Mr. Clarkson had promised in every necessary of life from the Company 's stores, at a moderate advance of ten per cent, on the prime cost and charges. That while Mr. Clarkson remained in the Colony they paid no more; but since then they have been charged upwards of 100 per cent. That they would not grumble even at that, if the worst of goods were not sold, and paltry advantages taken of them, particularly in the article of rum. That they had known by Mr. Dawes's order several puncheons filled up with thirty gallons of water each, and even, though thus reduced, sold to them at a more extravagant price than they had ever paid before.* * This is perfectly true, but upon investigation, it appeared to proceed from religious motives; Mr. Dawes said, he ordered a little water to be put into each puncheon, from a fear the consumers would neglect to dilute the spirit sufficiently. Had such a trick been played at a Slave Factory, how would it be construed? “That the only means they have of acquiring those goods, is by labouring in the Company's service, and even this they are deprived of, at the whim of Mr. Dawes, or any other Gentleman in office, which they consider a prodigious hardship, as it is the only resource whereby they can provide bread for their families; that out of mere pique several have been discharged from service, and not permitted, even with their little savings, to purchase provisions from the Company's store-house, the only one here. “That
Mr. Clarkson informed them before he sailed for the quantity of land they supposed themselves possessed of, and in consequence only one fifth part of what was originally promised them (the petitioners) could be at present performed; which quantity the Surveyor would deliver them in a fortnight at furthest, but they should have the remainder at a future time. "That they should have been satisfied had they got one fifth part of their proportion (in good land) time enough to have prepared a crop for the ensuing year, but the rains are now commenced, and the Surveyor has not finished laying out the small allotments, which he might have done, had he not relinquished the work as soon as Mr. Clarkson sailed; and the greater part of those he has surveyed, are so mountainous, barren and rocky, that it will be impossible ever to obtain a living from them.” After mentioning many more trifling complaints, and dwelling greatly on the happiness and prosperity of their children, they conclude with words to this effect. "We will wait patiently till we hear from you, because we .are persuaded you will do us justice; and if your Honors will enquire into our sufferings, compassionate us, and grant us the privileges we feel entitled to from Mr. Clarkson’s promises, we will continually offer up our prayers for you and endeavour to impress upon the minds of our children, the most lasting sense of gratitude, &c, &c. 'This petition is signed by thirty one of the most respectable Settlers in behalf of the whole; and they have
raised a small subscription for supporting their representatives while in the Directors will pay attention to them, and not suffer themselves to be biassed by the misrepresentations of one or two plausible individuals, who must of course say all they are able in vindication of their conduct, and who, we have reason to believe, from their hipocritical pretensions to religion, have acquired a great ascendency over a few of the leading Directors;—but surely they will not be so forgetful of their own characters and interests, as to allow that ascendency to operate against honesty, truth and justice, and ruin the quiet and happiness of a thousand souls: ––no, they must be strangely altered indeed, laying aside their partiality for Eiopians, if they do not possess too much probity to hesitate a moment when it comes before them. Besides displeasing the blacks, and rendering them uneasy, Mr. Dawes is at constant variance with some one, or other of the officers, and since I wrote you last, few days have pass'd over without some fresh feud; one in particular is of so extraordinary a nature I must relate it, that you may have a peep into the disposition of our Governor. Mr. S— a surgeon, who came out in the Sierra Leone Packet, was two months here, without a room to lodge in on shore, which was attended with great inconvenience to him, and interfered considerably with his duty; he, after some time, interceded with Mr. Dawes to let him have a small room fitted up in our house, which he soon got finished, and removed into the apartment being very comfortable and snug, Mr. Dawes took a fancy to it, and the day after Mr. S had taken possession, without any apology or preface, sent his servant to demand the key; Mr. S— was surprised at so uncouth and arbitrary a proceeding, and did not feel inclined to treat it with passive obedience, but gave a positive refusal; as such rudeness merited; in consequence, be was immediately dismissed from the service, and here follows an accurate copy of his dismission. Council, Free Town, 26th April, 1793 SIR, I am desired to transmit the enclosed resolution of Council to you, and am, Sir, Your obedient humble Servant, (signed) J. Strand, Secretary. Resolved,
that Mr. S—, who came out to this Colony as Surgeon in the Hon. the Company's service, has pointedly refused obedience to the commands of the Superintendant, he be dismissed from the service, and that from this day he is no longer considered as a servant of the said Company. . ' . entered (signed) James Strand, Secretary. Did you ever hear of any thing more ridiculously despotic?—but mark, the sequel; the day following Mr. Dawes attended by the Secretary and his (Mr. Dawes's) servant, came to the Hummums, for by this name I must tell you our house is known, I was sitting in the piazza reading; they took no notice of me, but Mr. S— being present, the Governor addressed him, and demanded the key of his room, which of course was not complied with; he then desired his servant to break open the door, who immediately got to work, and would have done it, but was slily checked by Mr. Dawes, who with as little ceremony or preface as he had offended, went up to Mr. S—, and said, "I am much concerned, Sir, for what has passed, if you feel offended, I beg your, pardon, I have been unwell, or would not have acted so rudely; I wanted your room, because it was retired, that I might be a little quiet; pray, Sir, return my papers, and forget what has passed, you will greatly oblige and make me happy by doing so." Mr. S— heard this penitential confession with amazement, and replied,— "Had you asked me in a gentlemanlike manner for my room at first, it would have been much at your service as it is now, I bear no malice—here are your papers." I could fill up twenty pages was I to acquaint you with all the private quarrels of this sort: but as they can neither afford amusement or instruction, it is best to pass them over in silence. On
the 25th of April we heard of the French King being massacred, and that against the blood thirsty banditti, who have usurped the
reins of government in came
by the Swift Privateer Cutter of Factory, and made some valuable reprisals. His Majesty's frigate Orpheus, Captain Newcomb, Sea flower Cutter, Lieutenant Webber, and the African Queen, a ship chartered by the Company, arrived here the beginning of last month. Captain Newcomb,
in his way out, touched at arrived
safe at this port, and have since been condemned and sold at lost on the shoals of Grandee. The
Orpheus came out to protect the British trade on this part of the coast of in some measure; but she is only to run down the Coast,
and proceed to the remaining here a few days, they both went to leeward, unfortunately three or four days too late, or they would
have intercepted a French Corsair that has scowered
the coast from leagues from hence) downwards, considerably annoyed our trade, and taken eight valuable ships clear away, it is supposed to Cayenn; she had captured many more, which have been retaken by the Seaflower and
Robust (a Privateer from Old Calabar, where they expect to fall in with and take a large French Guinea-man, that has twelve hundred slaves on board, and is just ready to sail. One of the ships they re-captured was sent in here. I have seen the master of her, who says he never saw such a savage looking set in his life, as were on board the Frenchman. They all had on horsemen's caps (having a tin plate in front, with the emblem of Death's
head and marrow bones, and underneath inscribed, " their waist, with a brace of pistols, and a sabre; and they looked so dreadfully ferocious, that one would suppose them capable of eating every Englishman they met with, without salt or gravy. Unluckily the Orpheus sprung her foremast, which obliged her togive up pursuing those Republican ragamuffins, and returned here. During her absence, one or the most atrocious infringements on the liberty of British subjects, and the most daring extension of arrogated power that has yet occurred among us, was practised, by our Colonial Tribunal, on the persons of three sailors belonging to the African Queen. These
thoughtless sons of was
away (I believe at belonging to one of the Settlers; they were immediately apprehended, and taken before the Chief Magistrate, who committed them to prison, and the subsequent day they were tried, not by their Peers, but by Judge McAuley, and a Jury of twelve blacks, who, without any evidence or defence from the prisoners, found them guilty of stealing and killing the duck. The self-created Judge then sentenced one of them to receive thirty-nine lashes by the common whipper, fined the other two in a sum of money each, and ordered them to be confined in irons, on board
the These sentences were accordingly put in execution; poor Jack was dreadfully mortified at being whipped by a black man; but his punishment being soon over, I considered it the lightest, for his fellow sufferers were kept ironed in the close hold of a ship, already infested with disease, upwards of three weeks, till the Orpheus returned; when the master of the African Queen presented a petition from them to Captain Newcomb, who did not hesitate to interpose his authority. He came on shore, waited on the Governors, and without waiting for compliments or paying any himself, he demanded of them, by what authority
they tried White Men, the subjects of circumstance, that it struck him with astonishment. "By act of Parliament," answered Mr. McAuley. "Shew me that Act of Parliament," replied Captain Newcomb; the Act for incorporating the Company being produced, Captain Newcomb read it over carefully, and finding there was no sanction given for holding any Courts of the kind, exclaimed, "Your Act of Parliament mentions nothing of the sort—your Court is a mere usurpation, and a mockery on all law and justice, I desire the prisoners may be released instantly." This, you imagine, was very unpalatable language to our mighty men; but they were forced to stomach it, and comply with the orders of their superior. It is much to be wished; a ship of war was always stationed here; the very sight of her would restrain the exercise of similar abuses, or any extravagant stretches of undelegated power. The first Sunday in every month is the day appointed for holding this sham Court, which, withal, serves very well for regulating any internal quarrels or misunderstandings among the Settlers, by whom it is credited; but extending its functions beyond them, is most iniquitous presumption. Letters arrived by the African Queen from Mr. Clarkson, saying he was coming out immediately. The joy this news produced was of short continuance, and suddenly damped by dispatches from the Directors, mentioning Mr. Clarkson being dismissed, and succeeded by Mr. Dawes. This cannot in any way be rationally accounted for, but it is universally supposed the Directors have been betrayed into an act so prejudicial to their interests, and the welfare of their Colony, by listening to some malicious, and cowardly representations, sent home by certain persons here, who are fully capable of assassinating the most immaculate character, if thereby they can acquire latitude for their boundless ambition, or, for a moment, quench their unconscionable thirst for power. No language can perfectly describe how much the generality of people are chagrined on this occasion; they have added to their petition the most earnest solicitation for Mr. Clarkson to be sent out again. Numbers, hopeless of such an event, are about to quit the Colony, and ever since the news transpired, they have harrassed Mr. Dawes with insults, in hopes he may take it in his head to be disgusted and march off. They even went so far as to write a letter, reminding him of the recent melancholy fate of Louis XVI. and threatening something similar to him, if he did not instantly acquiesce with some demand they made relating to provisions, and which I learn he complied with, without hesitation. I should not be surprised, after obtaining one demand so easily, if they repeated their threats, until all the promises made them were fulfilled: but they say it was the want of provisions, that incited them to frighten
the Governor, and they will now wait peaceably till their Deputies return
from they know what the Directors mean to do for them. It will be a monstrous pity if this Colony does not succeed after the immense sum of money expended on it: the original theory of its establishment (so generally known) was praise worthy and magnanimous, nor do I suppose such a scheme by any means impracticable; but injudicious management, want of method, anarchy, perpetual cabals, and cavils, will thwart the wisest and noblest intentions, which I predict will be the case here, unless some speedy salutary alterations are adopted; if the present system is continued, not only the Settlers, but the Natives will be provoked; all kinds of confidence will cease, the Company’s funds will be fruitlessly exhausted, and more than probable, before ten years, we may hear that the Colony is dwindled into a common slave factory: some situations make it necessary for superiors to be feared, and all situations require they should be beloved; but if the present managers continued here, their lifetimes, they will never experience the pleasure of the latter, or the honor of the former; and retire when they like, I very much question whether they will leave one friendly thought towards them behind: — for this (though an idea, well meaning men would blush to foster) muss ensue, where the seeds of dissention and rancorous jealousy are sowed and encouraged by those whose province should be to suppress their growth. The Amy it is said will sail in a week, she carries a small cargo of about 1500l. value, a laughable return for upwards of 100,000l. Being the first remittance, I dare say it will be well puffed off in your news-papers; to see one of those puffs would put me in mind of a persons, face distorted with a forced laugh, when the heart felt nought but emotions of agony: for here is a capital stock of more than 200,000l. half expended, and this first harvest, I suppose, will barely defray the disbursements of shipping, and carrying itself; what is more lamentable, such as it is cannot be often repeated, for the property is mostly sunk in such a way, that no probable or real advantages can ever revert from it, without the aid of an immense sum most judiciously applied. The periodical rains are just commencing, and seem to set in very severe, but I am in hopes of escaping its inclemency, being about to turn my back on them, and bid adieu to this distracted land, so you may probably
hear of our arrival in take a round about voyage by way of Discontents about to leave the Colony, are so numerous, that she will be greatly crowded, and as the comfortable in her, and less liable to fall in with French Pirates, than we should in the former, which is a dull sluggish vessel, though it is a prevailing opinion here, should she (the Amy) meet with a French man of war, she will be in no danger, as the National Convention have offered protection to all the Company's ships; how true this may be, I cannot say; but it is probable enough, as two of the Directors were some time since nominated Members of the Convention. We are to sail in a day or two, and I am very much hurried in packing up, and preparing for our voyage, therefore must bid you farewell, &c, &c.. LETTER XIII. Swan with Two Necks, Lad-lane, My dear Madam, I hasten to acquaint you, that after a passage of nine weeks and four days, in the Alexander (Shaw) from once more treading the sod of Old England, which at one time during our voyage, I did not expect would ever be the case, for an ill-natured contagious fever, (when we had been but a few days at sea), discovered itself in the ship, and, before it could be checked, scourged almost every person on board; however, by the skill and vigilance of the ship's surgeon, only one death happened. We had been out about three weeks, when it attacked me, and was it not for the good nursing and attention I had from every one, particularly the Captain, Surgeon, and my own good man, in all human likelihood I should have fallen a victim to its barbarity; indeed, Captain Shaw's impartial kindness to his sick, was beyond every thing I ever witnessed before, and in my opinion, stamps him a man of genuine humanity. Our ship was armed with two and twenty guns, and had between fifty and sixty men on board. We sailed
from under convoy of a frigate, who was so very negligent of her charge, as to permit us to intercept seven of them, which, had they been French, we must have taken in spite of all she could have done, being at that time so far to leeward, as to be scarcely
discernible. A them the preceding day, and now begged to be taken under our protection; this was granted, and she kept company with us until we got into the chops of the Channel. The fever that infested us, broke out among her crew, and hurried a fourth of their number into the other world. Here Captain Shaw displayed his humanity again, in a high degree, by waiting several hours every day, and thus prolonging our voyage, to the prejudice of his own interest, merely for the purpose of rendering them what assistance he could; had he not, their situation would certainly have been extremely comfortless, as the calamity I have just mentioned was aggravated by the ship being so leaky, that the master and crew had it frequently in contemplation to abandon her. We had little bad or boisterous weather during our voyage, and the time pleasantly vanished after health was restored in the ship; scarcely two days passed away without meeting one or more vessels; we always brought them too, and although none of them were of the sort wished for, they amused and furnished us with news of some kind. Clearing ship, when a strange sail was seen, as if we really expected a rencounter, and exercising our guns, once or twice a week, with all the manoeuvres practised in an engagement, were sources of amusement altogether new to me. At first, when a broad side was fired it operated like an electrical shock, but habit soon made it familiar, and at last I was less sensible of
vibration from it, than the awful tremendous thunder we oftentimes had off
the coast of which was more severe by far, than any I ever heard on the
coast of every
thing worth notice on our way home, I shall therefore turn back to my quiting say something of what occurred from that time till my
departure from We embarked and sailed on the ninth of June; nothing could have reconciled me to the idea of taking my passage in a slave ship, but Mr. –– being with me, for I always entertained molt horrid notions of being exposed to indelicacies, too offensive for the eye of an English woman, on board these ships; however, I never was more agreeably disappointed in my life. In the centre of the ship a barricado was run across, to prevent any communication between the men and women; the men and boys occupied the forward part, and the women and girls, the after, so I was only liable to see the latter, who were full as
well habited as they would have been in house, where I could retire, when I chose to be alone. Having heard such a vast deal of the ill treatment to slaves during the middle passage, I did not omit to make the nicest observations in my power, and was I to give upon oath what those observations were, I would declare I had not the slightest reason to suspect any inhumanity or malpractice was shewn towards them, through the whole voyage; on the contrary, I believe they experienced the utmost kindness and care, and after a few days, when they had recovered from sea sickness, I never saw more signs of content and satisfaction, among any set of people, in their or any other country. We had not our compliment of slaves by one-third, consequently there was an abundance of room for them. Regularly every day their rooms were washed out, sprinkled with vinegar, and well dried with chafing dishes of coal; during this operation the slaves were kept on deck, where they were allowed to stay the whole day (when the weather would permit) if they liked it; in the morning before they came up, and in the evening, after they retired to rest, our deck was always scrubed and scowered so clean that you might eat off it. Their provisions were excellent, consisting of boiled rice and English beans, sometimes separate, sometimes mixed, cleanly dressed, and relished with a piece of beef, salt fish, or palm oil, the latter seemed seemed generally to have the preference; a superabundance of this was their constant breakfast and supper; between the two meals each slave had a large brown biscuit, and commonly a dram of rum. Great attention was paid the sick, of which, however, there were few, a mess of mutton, fowl, or some fresh
meat, was daily prepared for them, and we arrived in only of one boy who was ill before we left the coast, and the remainder of the cargo in much higher health than when they had embarked Whether slaves are equally well treated in common, I cannot pretend to say, but when one recollects how much the masters are interested in their well doing, it is natural to suppose such is the case, for self-interest so unalterably governs the human heart, that it alone must temper the barbarity of any man, and prevent him from committing violence on, or misusing his own property, and every cargo of slaves is more or less that of the ship's master's. A few
days before our arrival at would have hurt me had I seen the former coupled with such an incendiary, and thus exposed to public ignominy; for, in my conscience I believe he was impelled by too keen notions of humanity, and too zealous a desire of doing good, to take so active a part as he has done for the abolition. For a length of time I viewed the Slave Trade with abhorrence—considering it a blemish on every civilized nation that countenanced or supported it, and that this, our happy enlightened country was more especially stigmatized for carrying it on, than any other; but I am not ashamed to confess, those sentiments were the effect of ignorance, and the prejudice of opinion, imbibed by associating with a circle of acquaintances, bigoted for the abolition, before I had acquired information enough to form any independent thoughts upon the subject, and so widely opposite are my ideas of the trade from what they were, that I now think it in no shape objectionable either to morality or religion, but on the contrary
consistent with both, while neither are to be found in unhappy of that populous country come into the world, like hogs or sheep, subject, at any moment, to be rob'd of their lives by the other fourth, I say, while this is the case, I cannot think the Slave Trade inconsistent with
any moral, or religious law,—in place of invading the happiness of pacifying the murdering, despotic Chieftains of that country, who only spare the lives of their vassals from a desire of acquiring the manufactures of this and other nations, and by saving millions from perdition, whose future existence is rendered comfortable, by the cherishing hands of Christian masters, who are not only restrained from exercising any improper or unjust cruelties over their slaves, by the fear of reciprocal injury, but by the laws of the land, and their religious tenets. All
the slaves I had an opportunity of seeing in appeared to be far preferable to what I expected, and they discovered more cheerfulness than I ever observed the Black shew in The I ever saw; and I was informed, wholly from the industry of slaves at their by-hours, for their own emolument; and I further heard, that notwithstanding many of them have in this way, amassed money enough to purchase several slaves, yet few instances occur where they shew even a desire of ransoming themselves. This is not a matter of much astonishment,
when we reflect how little slaves in our are embarrassed with worldly cares: that they are fed when hungry, cloathed when naked, and kindly nursed, with every medical care, when sick, solely at their master's expence, who only exact honesty, and a reasonable task of labour in return, after which, if attended to, they have nothing to fear, but, on the contrary, are certain of being rewarded and encouraged by extraordinary indulgencies; and when the thread of life is spun out, they leave this world with the pleasing thoughts that an interested, if not naturally humane and indulgent master or mistress will supply their place, and prevent their children from experiencing any want of a father or mother's fostering hand. How very few of our labouring poor can boast, when their mortal bodies become tenants of the grave, that their children have such certain provision secured them, and probably thousands and thousands of themselves may go supperless to bed this very night, and rise tomorrow, not knowing where to get a breakfast, or without the means of acquiring a morsel of bread to allay the gnawings of hunger— whether then are their situations, or those of slaves, having Christian masters, most preferable? The question, in my opinion, requires but little consideration." Pray do not misinterpret my arguments, and suppose me a friend to slavery, or wholly an enemy to abolishing the Slave Trade; least you should, I must explain myself,—by declaring from my heart I wish freedom to every creature formed by God, who knows its value,—which cannot be the case with those who have not tasted its sweets; therefore, most assuredly, I must think favourably of the Slave Trade,
while those innate prejudices, ignorance, superstition, and savageness, overspread
while the Africans feel no conviction by continuing it, but remove those errors of nature, teach them the purposes for which they were created, the ignominy of trafficing in their own flesh, and learn them to hold the lives of their fellow mortals in higher estimation, or even let me see a foundation laid, whereupon hopes itself may be built of their becoming proselytes to the doctrine of Abolition; then, no person on earth will rejoice more earnestly to see that trade suppressed in every shape; nor do I apprehend it would be impracticable, or even difficult to effect it, for I still admit what I said upwards of two years ago, to be strictly just.— “That Nature has not endowed the Africans with capacities less susceptible of improvement and cultivation, than any other part of the human race,"—and I am sure they thirst for literature; therefore, if seminaries were established on different parts of the coast, and due attention paid to the morals and manners of the rising generation, I do not question but their geniusses would ripen into ideas congenial with our own; and that posterity would behold them, emerged from that vortex of disgrace, in which they have been overwhelmed since time immemorial, establishing social, political, and commercial connections throughout the globe, and even see them blazing among the literati of their age. I am heartily glad to get rid of this subject, and am surprised how I came to entangle myself in it: but trust no expressions have slipped from me which will reproach my humanity or sensibility, for the wrongs of mankind; if there have, impute them to mistaken notions of happiness and misery, for I am not conscious of meaning ill. You
will observe, I was in some opinion of the country, people's manners, &c. from me, but any remarks of mine cannot be otherwise
than trifling and confined, as my stay was too short, and environs, were the only parts I had a chance of seeing. and partly high. I suppose it to be about a mile in length, and rather more than half in depth; a regular well built town, with streets intercepting each other at right angles; but I think many of them quite too narrow for that climate. I am told it is the largest, best built, most opulent, and populous town we have in the West-Indies. The merchants mostly have small country villas, within a couple of miles round, which are called Pens, whither they retire, between three and four o'clock in the afternoon, when all business for the day is compleated. I
found the heat much more oppressive than I ever felt it in voyages, upwards of two years, without perceiving my skin in any way discoloured by the weather, but before I had been in measure to living on the sea side, open to the violent breeze, which sometimes blew a very storm, and which, I am persuaded, is intensely acid, for I never could leave a key, knife, or any piece of steel exposed to it for half an hour, without getting rusted. The people dress mostly after the custom of this country, and their manners are much the same, except in hospitality, which surpasses all I ever met with. I used commonly to ride out from five to seven o'clock in the morning, and then return to breakfast; in those rides I often observed the country tore up into deep furrows, which I conjectured were passages of rivulets dried up, but was informed they were occasioned by heavy inundations, during the rains; notwithstanding
this, I found the roads remarkably good, particularly the road to is, without exception, the best I ever travelled upon; but understand, it was made at a prodigious expence, being a great part of the way through a morass,
which laying to windward of must
contribute to make that place very unwholesome; This is the capital of miles
from assembly of the island, and courts of justice are held there; it is also the residence of the Governor, whose house is most spacious and elegant;* a marble statue of our late gallant Rodney is erected there, in memory of that ever famous action on the 12th of April, 1782; its ornamental effect is greatly lost by being placed in an obscure corner. I am much surprised it
was not raised at would have appeared to more advantage and notoriety; but the House of Assembly determined that it should grace the former, being the metropolis. * It
is said to have cost 30,000l I
have already told you what excellent vegetable markets there are at likewise are very good, plenty of fat beef, but rather dark coloured and coarse grained, excellent mutton, pork, and poultry of all kinds; turtle in high perfection, and a variety of fine fish may be had every day. draw compassion and charity from its humane inhabitants, who subscribed most liberally to meliorate their sufferings, and I was credibly informed, that even the French prisoners have so handsome an allowance
as three and sixpence currency each per day, from the maintenance. Are not these proofs of generosity? can a doubt exist that those people who not only assist the oppressed and injured, but provide so bountifully for their very enemies, are not alive to the nicest definition of humanity? only in minds warped by ignorance or prejudice, I presume, and the opinions of such are very immaterial. A
very galling and extraordinary misfortune befel me
while at mentioning to you. After we had been there about eight or ten days, a genteel dressed man took lodgings in the same house with us, and the following day we went to dine and stay the night at a gentleman's in the country, when this fellow availed himself of our absence, broke into my bed chamber, and rifled a small casket, containing nearly all the trinkets and valuables 1 had, to some considerable amount; be assured I felt prodigiously mortified at my loss, which was not a little aggravated by finding the knave had eloped, leaving behind him, a trunk half full of stones, in lieu of his spoils. Tricks of this fort occur so rarely there, that it had made not a little noise, and the Town Vestry offering a handsome reward, for apprehending the thief, I had the satisfaction of hearing, just before we sailed, that he was taken, but this was all, for he had disposed of what he stole from me, at least none of the articles were found in his possession; however, it was supposed he would be convicted of other burglaries charged to him, and I cannot say, I should be hurt to hear, the world was rid of such a nuisance. I believe I have now noticed every circumstance meriting attention, from the time of leaving Sierra Leone, until our arrival here, and having spun this letter out to a greater length than was either expected or intended, I must therefore hurry it to a conclusion, and shall only observe the Amy is arrived, with the
two black Deputies from with from the Directors, none of whom I have yet had the pleasure of seeing. Mr. –– has some business with them, which he is in hopes of accomplishing shortly, we then intend paying a visit to you and the rest of my friends in Adieu, Believe me always Your's sincerely Forward to Two Voyages to
Sierra Leone, part 8. |
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