...It was intially planned that
segregation only take place at night for
this was the time when the mosquitoes generally attacked their victims.
During the day Europeans could work on their jobs in Freetown, then
retreat to the hills in the evening to escape "the bite" which,
according to Dr. Ross was " as much to be dreaded as that of a mad
dog." 53 The area selected was to be large enough to
contain all of the European homes in the colony. It was to be
surrounded by a strip of land cleared of trees, plants, and houses,
about a quarter of a mile wide, or "of a width sufficient to defy the
powers of flight possessed by the average mosquito." Within the
segregated area itself, care was to be taken that no place existed
where mosquitoes could deposit larvae. Most important of all, the
number of African servants in the area during the day was to be reduced
to a minimum, African children were to be totally excluded, and during
the evening and night, all non-Europeans were to be kept outside the
cantonment. To prevent the encroachment of the African population,
squatting, house building, and cultivation of land within one mile of
the residential area was not to be allowed. Warning signs and fences
were to proclaim that trespassing was forbidden. 54
The hills surrounding Freetown were ideal for the establishment of a
European enclave. The mosquito population thinned out considerably as
the land became more elevated and, except for a few cultivated patches,
the areas of planned settlements were free of existing African
habitation. A precedent for a location in the hills, moreover, had been
set years earlier when a missionary society rest house was established
on Leicester Peak.
A site was finally chosen on a plateau about 750 feet high between the
villages of Regent and Wilberforce, about four miles from the center of
Freetown. Workmen began to clear the bush early in 1902 and, using
prefabricated building materials sent from England, completed twenty
bungalows and a hillside residence for the governor by 1904. For
the sake of maximum ventilation and protection from the insects and
elements, the residences uniformly faced north and were raised high
above ground on columns. The area beneath the building was covered with
cement to prevent the formation of Anopheles breeding pools. And, like
its India counterpart, the segregated settlement became known as Hill
Station.55
The transportation problem had yet to be considered and solved. The
only way to get to the hills at the turn of the century was by walking
on bush paths or by being carried in a hammock. Since Europeans living
in the enclave would need to commute to Freetown and back daily,
however, the success of the settlement depended on rapid, mechanized
transport. In 1902, therefore, workmen began to lay track for an
adhesion railroad between Freetown and Hill Station.56 The
"Mountain Railroad" as it came to be known, running on one of the
steepest grades ever attempted for its type of locomotive, opened for
goods and passenger traffic early in 1904. From that time until
passenger service ceased in 1929, after road-building and car transport
had made it a costly anachronism, the train made the round trip three
or four times daily with two or three carriages separated by class.57
list by a single black face.66
The Mountain Railway similarly discriminated against Africans. J.A.
Fitz-John, the nimble-witted Creole editor of the Sierra Leone Times,
in his typical caustic manner, described the racial segregation which
took place at the inauguration of the track. The railway had made two
inaugural trips, one especially for Europeans - the "Segregation Party"
- in which, according to Fitz-John, "there was nothing tawney [sic] to
come between the wind and divinity of anyone of the party - not even
the Mayor," who, at this time, was C.E. Wright, a Creole; the other
trip was "exclusively for natives." "Let us trust," Fitz-John
commented,
"that the authorities fumigated the carriage afterwards, in order to
run no risks."67 Sixteen years later this color bar still
continued, its strength undiminished.
...Judging from its overall effectiveness, the Hill Station complex was
more harmful to the relationship between Creoles and Britons than it
was influential in keeping Europeans healthy. Interracial social events
in Freetown itself also became less common...The entire scheme, in
fact, was misconceived from the beginning...Its multiple failure
notwithstanding, Hill Station nevertheless continued to exist as a
limited white preserve - the most visible manifestation of Britain's
rejection of the Creoles. High above Freetown, it stood as a monument
to the deterioration of the British experiment in philanthropy and
racial equality which had led to the original founding of Sierra Leone.